Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Hotel

I don’t know whether I was relieved or disappointed at not seeing ebullient Celebrity Banestoir Gerald Keane’s Bentley parked at the front door of the newly re-opened 5 Star Castlemartyr Resort when I arrived. Not that I know the chap, but the previous time I arrived up to Castlemartyr’s door the aforementioned Bentley was making a statement in the Set Down Only area! The Resort, formerly the “Capella Castlemartyr”, opened in 2007 with a rather upmarket attitude reputed to have turned off local business. The cheapest bedroom was €540 and that proved hard to achieve with the shadow of recession looming. On top of all that, the postponement of the American Amgen project at nearby Carrigtuohill, along with the other recessionary belt tightening problems, saw “Capella Castlemartyr” close its doors. The 220 acre Castlemartyr estate, with its Ron Kirby designed 18 hole Golf Course, lakes and drifting swans, is absolutely stunning. It was once owned by Sir Walter Raleigh who also lost his head - but not in Castlemartyr! French Chateaux style, with magnificent ceilings and public rooms, the house was built by the Earls of Cork and was more recently a Carmelite Friary. Happily, the Castlemartyr Resort has re-opened as part of the Dromoland Collection, and it was really heartening to see people employed there again, and the whole place breathing fresh life. It was very pleasant too to find the new ‘hands on’ affable General Manager, Andrew Phelan, greeting all guests, and making sure everyone was looked after the minute they crossed the doorstep. Having sussed out our gorgeous room, I headed for the 2,400 square metre fab Spa where I indulged in the best pedicure ever from the delightful Gillian. Pre-dinner we headed to the Knight’s Bar, with its amazing restored Rococo ceiling, for an aperitif - Cosmopolitan (€15) for me and a Jameson (€4.10) for Sir. There are two dining rooms – the Bell Tower with an all day Brasserie menu and the Garden Room with a fine dining menu. Both rooms are elegantly beautiful but we felt they would be better if reversed - as in their previous life. The Garden room has a long banquette, Fleur de Lys upholstered solid 17th C ‘3 Musketeers’ style chairs, and is perfect for a buzzy Brasserie atmosphere, whilst the Bell Tower is light and pretty, with formal French style gilt and floral upholstered chairs and gold drapes, much more suited to formal dining. We were booked on a Dinner Bed & Breakfast Rate of €380 (€250 BB Saturday night – dinner €65pp. BB was €200 mid week). There was also a Tasting Menu at €85. We kicked off with a delicious amuse bouche of pork belly. Starters sounded lovely including scallop with brandade, almond and courgette or there was Jerusalem artichoke with coddled egg, wild mushroom and brioche. I considered the latter but decided on veal sweetbread which was nicely presented with pumpkin puree, salsify and baby onions. Sir chose pan fried foie gras with five spice, apple and chestnut which he enjoyed. Mains included turbot with endive, Lyonnaise potato and almond, whilst rabbit was with pomme souffle, parsnip and grain mustard. I had lamb cooked three ways, canon of lamb, a rissole of lamb rillette, and a rondelle of lamb breast, served with globe artichoke, black olive, and with what the waiter said were fondant potatoes but were actually gnocchi. Brendan had plentiful Hereford beef fillet cooked medium rare with a potato terrine and carrot. I finished up with a lovely tart tatin variation of caramelised apple and a quenelle of icecream. We also enjoyed a bottle of Domaine Chaintreuil Fleurie La Madone 2007 (€46) and a big bottle of still water (€6). Breakfast was delicious – perfect Eggs Benedict and croissants, and a big Full Irish for himself. There are picnic menus, a film snack menu, a children’s menu, something for everyone Hopefully Mr. Keane will like the new Castlemartyr even better now. I certainly do. An exceptional opening, in exceptional times, in an exceptional place.

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