Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Restaurant

Food just gets better and better in Ireland with Olivier Meisonnave’s Dax Restaurant in the basement of the former Grey Door premises in Upper Pembroke Street. Former Maitre d’ at Thornton’s, the Michelin starred Restaurant; M. Meisonnave is a familiar figure in foodie circles. What’s in a name? Dax is a Spa Town in the Aquitaine region of South West France where you can either indulge yourself with all the regional earthy foodie delights or lash on “Peloide”, a therapeutic mud from the marshes of the River Adour, which is apparently good for arthritis and indeed for whatever ails ye. Sleek as a cat, the décor at Dax is cool dark wood floors, white walls, and predominantly brown furnishings. The wine bar, inside the door, leads on to a large lounge space, with comfy brown leather sofas and low tables where with its almost “clubby” feel, many an afternoon is whiled away over a decent bottle of something or other – the selection is enormous! The restaurant itself is absolutely classy with dark tables diagonally set with rows of absolutely gleaming glasses and Gustavian style leather seated dining chairs. Miranda and I were seated under a big romantic glistening Georgian paned window looking up at the sky over the Georgian houses across the road – quite romantic really. Dax is the sort of place where you could just have one plate and a glass of wine or go the whole hog – which we did. A Tapas Menu had Garlic Mushrooms, Spanish Tortilla, Moules Mariniere, and the “Tapas Selection” at €6.90 each and Sautéed Foie Gras (€9.90). Starters (€9.00/€16.50) had Crab Gateau – “Mother’s recipe”; Scallops and Gambas with raw vegetable garnish, Soy and ginger foam; Ballottine of slow roasted suckling pig stuffed with black pudding and apples with caramelised onion puree; and warm fillet of marinated sea bream with brandade of salted cod. I could smell the Mediterranean. Everything appealed but it was a double whammy of foie gras, pan fried for Miranda and the Terrine for me. Both were served on rectangular white plates with elegant simplicity, with curly endive anointed with the most delicious dressing. The pan-fried foie gras was two little smidgeons of precious morsel gently sautéed whilst my terrine was a moreish, just perfect, rondelle, with Verjus and White Port jelly. The food at Dax never disappoints – it is confident and perfectly executed. Fillet of Sea Bass might be with a potato galette, plum tomato fondue, aubergine caviar and watercress foam whilst John Dory with sesame seeds may be paired with a quenelle of langoustine, carrot and cardamom puree and langoustine foam. Their beef is Irish “Charolais” from Carlow whilst their duck is of the prized Challans variety from France. Venison and Ray it was for us. A spankingly large ray wing draped on the most sublime unctuous olive oil based champ was superbly cooked with black butter. The venison too was spot on, three pieces, tender as a pussycat’s whisker, bathed in a red wine reduction with shallots and chestnuts. Desserts, ice cream, sorbets and breads are made in-house by Pastry Chef Jean-Guy Borde so spoil yourself with a real chocolate fondant or maybe a hazelnut and coffee parfait with nougatine and salted caramel sauce. “The Champagne is well priced”. Said Miranda. Lunch is available Tuesday to Friday 12.30 – 2 pm and offers brilliant value at €24 for two courses and €29 for three courses. They also do a Table d’hote menu Tuesday – Thursday at €34 for two courses and €39 for three courses. Dax is a chic classy spot appreciated by the discerning diner. “C’est si bonne”.

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