Sebastien Masi & Kirsten Batt
Number One Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8,
Telephone: + 353 (1) 420 0555
“11 out of 10” said a departing diner to the Maitre d’ in Locks Brasserie overlooking the Grand Canal at Portobello and its gliding swans. He was right and, fro...
How to get there
Approaching from city centre, drive along Harrington Street and SCR. Just short of Kelly's Corner, turn left onto Bloomfield Avenue (old church on corner). Go to end of street and Windsor Terrace and Locks are on the right.
Good to know
7 Days a week:
Dinner: 5pm - late
Lunch: Thur to Sun open for long lunches from 12 noon
Cuisine: French Brasserie
A La Carte:
Mains €16 - €32.50
Seasonal Market Treat Menu
2 Course €25.00
Served all evening Sun - Wed
Until 7 pm Thurs - Sat
Sunday Lunch: Yes
Main diningroom is wheelchair accessible but no wheelchair access to toilets.
Credit Cards: Yes
Private Dining: Yes
Green Room 10 pers max
Silver Room 22 pers max
About The Restaurant
“11 out of 10” said a departing diner to the Maitre d’ in Locks Brasserie overlooking the Grand Canal at Portobello and its gliding swans. He was right and, from the cross table conversation he had been enjoying with another solo gentleman, it appeared he was a seasoned discerning diner. In fact, quite oblivious to those around them, they had conducted a vehement assessments of restaurants in Dublin. “The arrogance of that fellow”, he had said. “Yes, I had the same treatment.” “Was it the dark one with the glasses”? “Yes, and the smaller fellow was just as bad - the pure arrogance.” One long standing French restaurant was torn apart. Our lovely waitress was just as bemused and amused as ourselves, as they competed for having sat around the best tables in the country. Anyway, they were both delighted with Locks.
One of the nicest rooms in the country, Locks was very successful for over 20 years under its initial ownership and eventually the time came for it to pass to new owners. Happily, it was reinvented by Sebastien Masi and Kirsten Batt, who run the superb upmarket Pearl Brasserie in Upper Merrion Street. With Locks Masi and Batt also hit the nail smack on the head with a very reasonably priced, well thought out, menu of delicious classy food in a relaxed friendly atmosphere, with Head Chef being Keelan Higgs.
Starters included white onion soup with fondant potato and smoked bacon foam, ham hock terrine with chicken and leek, curried parsnip, Granny Smith and mustard seeds. Smoked beetroot and goat's cheese mousse was with pickled vegetables, carrot aioli, truffle and hazelnut whilst home smoked salmon was with egg, confit violet potatoes, chives and rapeseed. Tortellini too was a divine combination of caramelised onion, smoked haddock and Ricotta. We chose Baby Gem Salad for me, and Squash Risotto for friend Rena. I loved the wonderfully fresh concoction of Baby Gem leaves tossed with shredded confit of duck in a salty anchovy dressing and croutons, through all of which a perfectly judged poached duck oozed down. This was the icing on the cake. Rena is a discerning risotto head and when it passes muster with her that’s something. The dish had a stunning flavour with the combination of risotto rice enhanced by gremolata, sage, and Aged Parmesan.
Mains include mushroom and leek pie with blue cheese, Jerusalem artichoke and coleslaw. Hake is paired with Jerusalem artichoke risotto, spinach, potato skin, bone marrow and raisin Bordelaise whilst duck is a wonderfully aromatic combination of carrot, cumin and dates. Venison haunch is a deep rich earthy pairing of beetroots, carrot and cocoa whilst the every popular 10oz Donald Russel rib-eye steak served with Bearnaise, homemade fries and onion rings is also there.
Obviously the menu changes as the seasons roll along but the food is always wonderful here. I was sorely tempted by the hake but another favourite in the form of seabream won out. I was delighted I chose it, as a perfectly cooked chunky fillet of this great fish came beautifully presented with anchovy, green and black tagliatelle, broccoli and squid. . Rare breed confit of pork belly for Rena was topped with foaming tortellini and a spiced carrot puree. We had side orders of Gratin Dauphinoise and proper Petit Pois A La Francaise. More delicious!
Desserts too are to die for. Think of chocolate parfait - a wonderful mousse of chocolate and coffee- served with a zingy passionfruit sorbet, or if you like something lighter vanilla and yogurt pannacotta comes with clemintine jelly, cold confit mango and dehydrated citrus fruit. Their lemon tart as you might expect is pure perfection with a creme fraiche mousse and lime powder whilst the boys will just adore the rich steamed golden syrup pudding with buttermilk icecream, honey and lime sauce.
Locks always rocks.
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