The Unicorn Restaurant

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In its Charlie Haughey heyday of the 1980s and ’90s, the legendary Unicorn Restaurant was a place that attracted a hedonistic high-flying set who thrived on more than a sprinkling of mischief...

The haunt of the media, politicians, spin doctors, and glamorous ladies about town such as the late beautician Bronwyn Conroy and gossip columnist Terry Keane, its long Saturday lunches, which most often kicked off and finished up in The Horseshoe Bar of The Shelbourne hotel, were legendary. Over bottles of Barolo and shoestring spaghetti, the mixum-gatherum flirted and frolicked with much table hopping and the essential exchanging of gossip.

Today, it’s owned by restaurateur and chef Kristan Burness and it’s still the popular city social hub it always was. 

Ensconced at a neat table for two, in what my friend the fashionista, described as Charlie Haughey’s table – back to the wall facing out in an alcove where he could see and not be seen – we were quickly brought two glasses of Prosecco, a welcoming opener, with divine focaccia. 

Perhaps I was on a roll with memories of its former life but the menu reminded me of the song from the musical Cabaret, ‘Twosies Beats Onsies But Nothing Beats Threes’, sporting a threesome each of Starters, Pastas & Risotto, Main Courses, and Desserts. 

The fashionista kicked off with a special of fine chunky prawns grilled with n’duja, while I had Capesante – perfectly seared West Cork scallops, retaining the essential moist interior, paired with crisp rondelles of Hick’s black pudding and blobs of silky apple sauce. 

Eschewing Tuscan white stew with rabbit and garganelli pasta; vitello – loin of mild fed veal, with spinach & salsa verde and mash, and pollo alla cacciatore, we chose Ligurian zuppe di pesce, and risotto con funghi et tartufo.  

The fish soup proved a colourful mix of red mullet and hake, razor clams and mussels, saffron potatoes and pesto, while my risotto of carnaroli rice, mushrooms and copious gratings of fresh black truffle, was probably the best ever. Risotto is notoriously difficult to get right but with its languidly loose texture, it was silky and sublime. We also demolished a sinful side of anchovy and rosemary roast potato.

Desserts too were excellent – a scrumptious big fluff of tiramisu in a cocktail glass for the fashionista, while my Amalfi lemon tart was suitably tart, with blackberry sorbet. 

I see a lot of food presented as beautiful works of art on a plate that taste of nothing, The Unicorn of yore may have been best known for socialising and fun, but under Burness’s baton The Unicorn of today is in danger of also being known for its flavour laden food – an art in itself.