Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Restaurant

‘Just knock three times and whisper low, that you and I were sent by Joe’, from the old song Hernando’s Hideaway, came to mind as we approached the new Amai by Viktor on Dublin’s Harry Street. Set on the first floor over The Corkscrew Wine Merchants, seeing a notice pinned to the door I, of course, jumped the gun and instead of pressing the indicated doorbell, headed straight into the wine shop! However, instead of being made feel like a mutt, I was guided charmingly by a chap through ‘the secret entrance’, up the elegant curving staircase, past a striking black mural of an African woman, created by the chef, to a chic room, with a bar area to the front and a larger dining area with a long banquette to the rear. There was a warm welcome from AGM Mariana Vasconcellos, and flowers galore, along with other colourful Brazilian artwork by the chef’s aunt. It was airy and bright, with loud music, and great opportunities for people watching from our window table overlooking the glamorous comings and goings to the Westbury Hotel. There was an intimate but not intrusive feel about the place, while the ding dong of the chiming doorbell rang clear, serving as a Major Domo announcement, with everyone looked to see who the next arrival was.

So what’s Amai all about? Well, it’s a collab between the owners of The Corkscrew, Paul & Fiona Foley and Brazilian chef Viktor Silva and GM Patron Alex Radu. Silva has been in Ireland since 2016, a previously worked at various establishments, including as head chef in the nearby Amuri Italian restaurant on Chatham Street, Bang on Merrion Row, and with Jordan and Maiken Bailey on events.

It's a Tasting Menu format here, involving a 7-courses or a slightly paired down Early Dinner version, served between 5pm-6pm Wednesday to Friday. The latter suited us perfectly, kicking off with a take on the traditional Brazilian Feijoada black bean and orange stew in a golf ball size crispy and silky croquettes with orange Orange, and a Nam Jim Thai sauce.

Next up a divine colourful wreath-like presentation had a base ring of Ardsallagh goats cheese, adorned with charred okra, candied strawberries, nasturtium leaves, crackly puffed rice, finished with a tableside drizzling of watermelon gazpacho, and mint oil and fermented tomato honey. Manna from heaven landed by way of superb glowing golden fennel brioche buns, with the prettiest mini ‘corn on the cob’ shaped butter.

The choice then was for fish or beef, so we had one of each. It was a refined version of the traditional Brazilian Moqueca for me, the equivalent to a French Bouillabaisse. Involving coconut milk, coriander, red pepper, cream, mussels, and a coconut foam, clean cuts of the participating poisson, firm white monkfish, were perfectly judged, not too soft, not too dense or rubbery as can be the case denizen of the deep. Meanwhile Across the table, superbly tender striploin, was napped with a jus bras and charred onion.

“This is just the best ever”, came the companion’s comment of a mango sorbet dessert, milk, chamomile, polenta cake-based, lime dessert, the clarity of all flavours tantalizing all senses.

Partial to a Caipirinha cocktail on occasion, the last two divine cachaca jelly morsels with strawberry and Sichuan tweaks made me smile.

Ring that doorbell!

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