Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

About The Restaurant

In anyone’s terms it has to be a fantastic achievement to take on a new premises, refurbish it, launch your business, and within 12 months be awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. This is what happened with Chef Aidan McGrath and his wife Kate Sweeney with their fabulous Wild Honey Inn in Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare. In fact the Wild Honey Inn is the first gastropub in Ireland to have been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

Aidan McGrath and his wife Kate Sweeney are both originally from Belmullet, Co. Mayo. Aidan graduated from Killybegs Hotel & Catering College in Co. Donegal and then began his working career in the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, London. He worked in a number of leading establishments in London, including The Dorchester and The Four Seasons, did time in France and Switzerland, and before returning to Ireland was Head Chef at Marco Pierre White’s L’Escargot restaurant, so this is a man with a serious culinary pedigree.

However, the desire to return to Ireland was always there. Aidan says that when he came back to Ireland each Christmas and New Year he always thought people were having such a good time and knew how to enjoy themselves, so he and Kate eventually returned to Ireland to work in Adare Manor. He subsequently worked in the 5 Star Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare before being offered the position of Executive Chef launching the total dining experience at the then new fabulous Lodge at Doonbeg, Co. Clare.

In 2008 Aidan and Kate decided to open somewhere for themselves - for them it has never been about money, it is all about lifestyle. They are a very idealistic couple who live up to their principles. They began to search for a premises but they had a comprehensive criteria! Aidan wanted to cook food he couldn’t get himself in a pub, not typical pub food for Ireland, but what he thinks it should be”. The desired premises had to have living accommodation, it had to have rooms for guests, it had to have a dining room, and it had to have a bar, because Aidan “wanted to do nice food in a pub environment – it was a big ask to fill all requirements!” However, they achieved their dream when they found their current location, with 14 bedrooms, and so, the Wild Honey Inn was born in 2009. Aidan’s prestigious pedigree as a chef speaks volumes and he says he is still doing the same type of food “most of the recipes I have used for years – you can dress them up or down - but simple good local food”.

However, Aidan’s good simple local food has all the refinements, tweaks and accompaniments, of the really top notch chef that he is. The devil is in the detail. Starters are divine. Ham hock and foie gras terrine is served with celeriac remoulade, haricot beans and apricot puree, whilst crab and prawn linguini uses white crab meat and the whole dish is enlivened with a whisper of chilli, spring onions, olive oil and Parmesan. Spiced chicken wings come with honey and parsley mayonnaise and organic leaves, whilst roast breast of mallard will be perfectly pink served with celeriac puree and Swiss chard.

Mains change every day and you are in for a treat. Being in County Clare you are always assured of wonderful fish fresh from the trawlers. Beautiful fillet of turbot might be with fine green beans, red onion, and green olive tapenade. Hake is served with braised lentils, varying vegetables, and smoked pork belly – I love that Spanish style surf and turn combination – whilst monkfish tail is roasted and served with saffron potatoes and broad beans. Dover sole is also there served with sea asparagus and Jerusalem artichoke Lyonnaise. Organic chicken is roasted and served with orzo pasta, creamed wild mushroom, asparagus, olive oil and micro basil, whilst slow roast rare breed pork belly comes with spiced lentils and a Granny Smith apple puree. You can also have a simple dish such as sausages and mash but they will be Jack Kelly’s prize winning pork and apple sausages with baked beans and mash – yum. There is game in season including wild venison which Aidan serves with sweet and sour carrots and apple and parsnip puree.

With delicious top notch food, 14 en-suite bedrooms, open log fires, and a wonderful old walled garden, is it any wonder people are beating a path to Aidan and Kate's Wild Honey Inn…..join them!

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