Eamonn O'Reilly, Chef Patron
Molesworth Place , (Off St. Stephen's Green), Dublin 2,
Telephone: +353 (0)1 6760300
I first wrote about Eamon O’Reilly’s cooking when in 1997, aged just 25, he opened his original One Pico Restaurant in what was a former convent at the top of Camden ...
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12.00pm - 11.30pm
Closed Bank Holidays
A La Carte:
Mon - Fri 6pm-10.30pm
Sat 6pm-7pm Tables vacated by 8.45pm sharp.
3 Course €39
2 Course €25
Number of Covers:
About The Restaurant
I first wrote about Eamon O’Reilly’s cooking when in 1997, aged just 25, he opened his original One Pico Restaurant in what was a former convent at the top of Camden Street. I wrote about him again in 2001 when he moved to his current premises, in Molesworth Lane, within the golden mile of St. Stephen's Green, when his food was outstanding but, like everything of that time, there was an awful lot going on on the plate. I suppose you could say both occasions marked the beginning and height of the Celtic Tiger.
Apres Celtic Tiger, One Pico has just had a major revamp, shedding its former cream and gold colouring for a muted sophisticated grey and soft sheen silver theme. It is very elegant and unfussy, grey velvet buttonback banquette seating, and dining chairs. Overall one very much now gets the feeling that this is an establishment city restaurant operating with confidence and panache and, judging by the number of Corporate suits dining on our visit, this is definitely the case – the suits still know where good food is! After all the boom and bust stuff, and so many years later, I have to say I think Eamon O Reilly is now cooking better than ever. There is an authority about everything on the plate, no over the top stuff, just elegant classy and assured top of the range French style food with all the necessary elements – at probably better value than ever.
Friend Rena and I kicked off with a Mojito and a Bombay Sapphire G & T whilst we took in the menu. An amuse bouche of a perfectly seared scallop, on a little square slate sitting on a crispy white napkin, was very effective with a smear of silky cauliflower puree and truffle foam. Seared scallops were with a trotter boudin, shallot and truffle dressing, and raisin jus. Foie gras parfait had a pear and vanilla puree, lime jam and warm brioche, whilst langoustine risotto incorporated sauteed Dublin Bay prawns, sweet peas and sorrel, and a truffle foam. I opted for a Duck Boudin which was absolutely divine. The ‘boudin’ of confit duck leg, rich and unctuous, was standing proud on the plate, beside a rondelle of black pudding hash topped with a poached hen egg, in turn swathed with a grainy mustard Hollandaise. A quenelle of apple compote and a smear of sunny yellow completed the picture on the snow white plate, and it was all hatched and dispatched by me with an almost indecent haste! I would go back for that alone. Rena also loved her starter of seared Red Mullet topped with a red pepper escabeche, resting on shards of shaved fennel, with black olive puree and decorative lines of saffron aioli crossing the glass plate.
Mains generally were €29 apart from a braised fillet of beef, braised short rib, white onion puree, Jerusalem artichoke, smoked bacon foam at €36, best end of lamb and confit shoulder with goat’s cheese and piquillo pepper at €32, and at the other end of the scale,a risotto of ceps and truffle at €19. To follow the rich duck, I chose a crisp sauteed fillet of sea bream (€29), topped with a roast scallop, sitting on a mousseline of potato, circled with fine green beans and black bacon, in a Vermouth cream. Rena had lightly spiced John Dory (€29) on Puy lentils, with baby carrots, celeriac puree and a crab croquette. Both excellent.
When we got to puddings we were getting “abstemious”! We shared a lemon and Macadamia nut souffle) with a little jug of subtle thyme Anglaise, and complementing Ferrero Roche ice cream! Heavenly.
With a bottle of Trimbach Alsace Pino Blanc 2006 (€29), a large Tipperary water (€5.95) and optional service our bill came to €164.90 – and we enjoyed every penny of it! There is also a three course set dinner menu at €39, and an Early Bird menu at €25. Check the times available – they vary. One Pico is now also open for Sunday lunch €24/€29 and dinner €29/€39, and lunch during the week - €19.95/€25.
Eamonn O’Reilly is a true celebrity chef who actually cooks! One Pico is one of the best restaurants in Ireland.
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