GASTROPUBS GASTROPUBS GASTRO PUBS
Thursday 14 January 2010
The latest phenomonen in the U.K. are vast gastropubs called “Taybarns”, first opened in 2007 by Whitbread Brewers, and expanding rapidly. Billed as the “ultimate eatery”, they are “all you can eat” restaurants and the masses have been flocking. “It’s a reflection of how families eat nowadays, we can all have something different, and not have to worry about someone not liking anything on a menu. Perfect for Sunday lunches.” I heard one happy mother say. Painted a blinding orange, Taybarns have 34ft counters with buzzing food stations producing popular fare. There are wood ovens for pizzas, Chinese dishes sizzling in woks, pastas bubbling, rotisserie chickens spinning, grills grilling, Texican grub, a Chip Shop, and freshly cooked roast joints for the traditionalists. £7.99 weekdays and stg£8.49 at weekends allows you eat as much and as many dishes as you want! How long before we get a similar operation I wonder?
We visited some gastropubs recently to see what was on offer here on Sundays. The new “Exchequer” is owned by two young guys, Ian Tucker and Peter Rock, who have created an urban front bar, a relaxed lounge with vintage sofas, and a proper dining area. Weekdays they do charcuterie boards, salads, terrines, soups, gourmet sandwiches, daily fish and hotpots. The Sunday menu is cut back to “Brunch & Roast”. On our visit they had a poached or scrambled eggs variously with bacon, wild mushrooms, or salmon, or warm black pudding with caramelised apples, all at €8.95. Moving from BR into UNCH there was an Irish beef steak sandwich and chips at €13.95 or roast pork. Kate had lovely spicy lentil soup (€4.95) and goat’s cheese on toasted foccacia with leaves and chips (€11.50) whilst I had a cup of excellent Doran’s smoked chowder with potato and leek at €2.95 and “roast top side of beef (€13.95) with roast potatoes, root vegetables and gravy”. Kate also enjoyed jelly and icecream with berries at €4.95. With a brace of Mojitos, on special at €6, and Caipirinhas at €9, a bottle of Vittel (€5.50), and optional service our bill was €80.80
Vaughan’s Eagle House in Terenure has food by Olivier Quenet of La Maison, and now also over O’Brien’s pub at Leeson Street.. Starters €6.90/€9 included fried whitebait with lemon, smoked salmon salad and fresh crab claws with garlic butter, and fresh fish cakes. Mains €9.50/€16.90 included braised lamb shank, chicken casserole pie, Beef and Guinness pie, and pan-fried pork liver with sage, spinach mash and caramelised onions. I had an ample starter portion of black pudding, apple and potato salad, topped with a poached egg and wholegrain mustard dressing (€8.90). Kathy had a skillet of fresh seafood (€15.90) generously filled with salmon, cod, cockles and mussels). With a glass each of Pinot Grigio (€10) and a large mineral water (€4) and optional services our bill was €43.80.
The roof level “Secret Bar” in Fade Street, is one of the coolest places in Dublin right now. It is over L’Gueuleton who also cook the food. They do Sunday brunch from 1 to 4 p.m. with dishes priced between €7.50/€10.50 and cocktails €8.50/€10.50. The menu doesn’t distinguish between starters and mains, they are somewhere in-between but with sides of chips, salad, bacon, a brace of eggs, and black pudding, all €3/€5 you can build up your chosen dish like Lego! Eggs Benedict is with bacon, Eggs Florentine with smoked salmon on Guinness brown bread, pork and leek sausage is with saute potatoes and fried hen’s egg. I had delicious Smokies – smoked haddock, tomato and Gruyere gratin – at €10.50 whilst Kathy had French Toast with bacon, fried banana and Maple syrup at €9.50. We shared a good bowl of chips with dipping sauce at €4 and our bill with a Mojito (€10.50), a Caipirinha (€10.50), and optional service, was €49.
Gastropub Sundays are very relaxing.
THIS ARTICLE WAS FIRST PUBLISHED IN THE SUNDAY INDEPENDENT ON 10/1/2010