Restaurant Review - Marcel's
Friday 20 September 2013
It’s funny how some new eateries manage to hit the ground running whilst others make excuses for their failings for weeks. Located in what was the former Espresso Bar on St. Mary’s Road in D4, facing the Dylan Hotel, the new Marcel’s Restaurant expounds and exudes just the perfect measure of confident chicness without in any way being overbearing.
“You presented me with 2nd prize at ‘Taste of Dublin’ this year – it’s the only prize we’ve ever received.” Said the young man who greeted friend Paul and I on arrival. He turned out to be Omar Bux who, together with Paul Rooney. already operates the popular Green Hen on Exchequer Street. It was to the Green Hen Tasting Plate to which he was referring. Phew, at least I was in good odour here, as I had hesitated for a minute wondering what he was saying….
We just loved the entire ambiance at Marcel’s, its hints of Morocco in the décor, much use of my favourite colour, Hermes orange, in the superb leather dining chairs, and button backed banquettes. Moroccan terracotta coloured ‘tiled’ wallpaper, brown button backed leather counter, wood floors, chic little Moroccan hanging lights, were offset by white napery, pretty blue and white Churchill plates, and Paul Costelloe white and silver china coffee cups. It has all the feel of a chic neighbourhood spot in Saint-Germain-des-Pres.
The menu too appealed – it is very clearly set out. Starters €6-€12 had rolled leg of guinea fowl with coco bean puree, blackened scallions, Girolles and foie gras mousse, whilst pan seared scallops were with cauliflower puree, mushroom vinaigrette and crispy bacon. Mains €19 -€28 proffered a 6oz beef fillet with slow cooked rib, parsley mousseline, glazed micro vegetables and horseradish jus; monkfish was with chorizo, octopus, Parisienne potatoes, anchovy fritters, and a caper and almond spiced honey butter. Rump of lamb came with sweetbreads, and duck breast had breaded foie gras fondants, Tuscan kale and Five Spice jus.
All sounded great, and I will return toute suite, but I had earlier put my eye on a jolly good Early Bird which runs from 5-7 p.m. Sunday – Thursday with 2 courses at €20 and 3 courses at €25 and which also serves as their lunch menu. It offers a choice of four starters, four mains, and three puds – a tweaked version of the a la carte dishes but with every attention to detail.
Paul’s starters was a mahogany brown moist, rich, melt in the mouth, glazed pork cheek sat on contrasting cool fresh pillow of watermelon, sprinkled around with watermelon cubes, almonds and a Caesar style wreath of rocket. I had a cracking cool clear presentation of cured salmon, off set with cucumber ribbons, lines of avocado puree, with a lime and caper dressing. Perfect.
Mains offered panfried cod with coco beans, brown shrimp, mixed herb and mussel veloute, whilst the vegetarian dish was celeriac cannelloni, vegetable Brunoise, wild rice crispies and Waldorf Salad. We could happily have had either of these dishes but Paul had slow cooked rib of beef, again dark rich and succulent, sitting on a vibrant green parsley mousseline, tweaked with glazed micro vegetables and a horseradish jus. Roast breast of chicken for me was cut in half lengthways and upended into sculptural peaks. Sitting on the finest golden yellow silky aromatic Parmesan and truffle polenta, it was scattered ‘nonchalantly’ with smoked lardons, baby onions and baby leeks. Side orders were also available at €3.50.
To follow, we shared a fantastic rich moist chocolate pave with blackcurrant sorbet and candied popcorn; and poached peaches with Champagne sorbet, peach soup and biscotti, both of which were laid out on rectangular plates highlighting the elements of each dish. With a bottle of Mount Auriol Viognier 2011 (€28) bottled water (€8) and two coffees (€4.40) our bill with optional service came to €96.40.
Finishing our wine and water out front on the hedged in terrace, we cogitated on the cooking and intensity of flavours here which were just so good. If they keep it up, they might be stealing 1st Prize next year!
Marcel’s Restaurant,
No. 1 Saint Mary’s Road,
Dublin 4.
Tel: (01) 660-2367
First Published in the Sunday Independent