KELLY'S RESORT HOTEL - CHEF AHERNE RETIRES
Tuesday 01 December 2009
Not perhaps an everyday familiar face as a Celebrity Chef on your TV screens, but Jim Aherne would be one of the most widely known and respected chefs in the food industry in Ireland. A native of East Cork, where his mother still lives at 101 years old, Chef Aherne, retired last week after 35 years in one of the best known and loved Hotels in Ireland, Kelly’s Resort Hotel at Rosslare Strand, “Ah yes”, you might now say, “I know who you are talking about because the food is always great at Kelly’s.”
A classically trained chef, Jim Aherne has cooked for over 2 million guests throughout his reign in Kelly’s. Highly qualified, nay a walking food encyclopaedia, prior to his appointment as Executive Chef in Rosslare he honed his skills in Germany and Switzerland. However, not content to sit on his laurels, Jim was always seeking new ideas to bring to his dining public at Kelly’s by spending time during the winter closure in some of France’s top Three Star Restaurants such as Chez Pic in Valence, Roger Verge’s Le Moulin de Mougins in Cannes, and Bernard Loiseau’s in Saulieu. He has also been a tremenduous guiding influence on young people coming into the industry over the years, and his long tenure in office is a testament not only to him as a person of strength and honour, but also to Bill Kelly as an employer.
Chef Aherne is a larger than life personality, oozing wit and wisdom, which was all to the fore last Sunday night at a “Dinner Celebration” hosted for him by Bill and Isabelle Kelly in the hotel’s French Bistro, La Marine. I always believe that respect for one another is very important in life and Bill Kelly certainly “did him proud” on the night as did the many people who turned up to say a “fond farewell”.
The menu, prepared by La Marine’s superb chef, Eugene Callaghan, who will be stepping now into Jim Aherne’s shoes, was “a look to the past and the future”. We kicked off with the eponymously named Jim’s Terrine of Foie Gras with a Jurancon jelly and truffled leaves accompanied by Macon Clesse ‘Domaine de la Bongran’ 1998 (Magnum) Jean Thevenet. This was followed by Baked Baby Pumpkin with Kilmore Quay Scallops and Vougeot ‘ Le Clos Blanc’ Monopole 1er Cru 2006 Domaine de la Vougeraie. The main course was ethereally delicate pink Roast Loin of Veal with Cep Gratin, accompanied by Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Mes Cinq Terroirs’ 2005 Denis Mortet. An Irish cheese plate was paired with a very special Chateauneuf-du-Pape ‘Clos des Papes’ 2005 Paul Avril. This absolutely delicious wine had a special significance as it was produced by Isabelle Kelly’s father, the distinguished wine producer Paul Avril, at the family’s Clos des Papes Estate in Southern Rhone, who sadly died in June this year. Happily Paul Avril had the joy of seeing his 2005 Chateauneuf du Papes named “Wine of the Year 2007” by Wine Spectator and travelling en famille to New York to receive the accolade. The Clos des Papes Estate is now run by Isabelle’s brother, Vincent Avril. Although we finished in very grand style with a stunning feather light White Chocolate and Raspberry Parfait paired with a Chateau d’Yquem 1996 Cru Class Sauternes, for me the outstanding wine of the evening too was Paul Avril’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Chef Aherne may have more time now for his beloved fishing but I have no doubt too that he will still keep an eye on the stove.