Lucinda O'Sullivan's Ireland

Tuesday 17 November 2009

I remember vividly my very first day at Taj Hotel Mumbai - It used to be called Bombay in those days. It is a dream of every Catering College graduate to join the Iconic Taj. I failed to get into the Taj straight out of College, but as luck would have it, four years later, I was offered a job there as an Assistant Restaurant Manager. I remember telling myself, “that’s it; I will never ever leave the Taj. What can be better than this?” I was put on a two weeks induction programme and afterwards was posted at Rendezvous (roof top French restaurant). I am second from the left in the very old photo taken in the Taj.

This Restaurant was very popular. It also had a scenic Bar attached to it called Apollo Bar. Shortly before my arrival there, Chef Antony Worrall Thompson had opened a branch of his famous Ménage a Trois restaurant (yes in this bar). It was my first glimpse of nouvelle cuisine. This guy had taken Mumbai by storm and his plate presentations were the best, I had seen. The menu was done in his own handwriting serving Starters and Desserts only with no main courses.

There was an obsession with getting everything 100% right, 100% of the times. We would have daily briefings twice a day. We wore a different uniform for Lunch & Dinner. The restaurant was divided in four sections and there was a live band playing. Each section had a headwaiter, plus three waiters. There were two hostesses, two catering assistants (above the head waiters) and then an Assistant Manager and a Manager.

After spending a year at this Restaurant, I was transferred to Tanjore Indian Restaurant. I learnt a lot about quality, attention to detail and the importance of Mise en place. Nothing was ever left to chance.

The Taj Hotel was, and is, where the world's famous celebrities stay when in Mumbai. I personally had the pleasure (and pressure) of serving President Mitterrand on his State Visit to India. Jackie Kennedy too came to Tanjore (the iconic Indian restaurant at the Taj) and we served her traditional Thali – a variety of Indian dishes served on a silver platter – and which is exactly the same Thali, that we serve in Rasam here in Sandycove.

She came with the Maharaja of Jaipur (Bhawani Singh) plus two other guests. She was a very soft spoken and easygoing person. Absolutely no airs or graces.

In late eighties, the hotel literally had 100% occupancy (625 rooms) so we had no idea of ever having to worry about business. Restaurant Guests were all the Who's Who of Society. It was a high-pressure environment. One thing it did for all who worked there at that time, is, it provided a sort of commando training for running a restaurant.

Our Chef at Tanjore (Udit Sarkhel) was transferred to Bombay Brasserie in London. And that was the first time I thought it will be a great idea to seek a job offer in London. (He now owns Sarkhel's in Wimbledon. Guests would tell us, there is nothing of this quality in London. There were plenty of curry houses yes, but no fine dining. Australia had began to offer fantastic opportunities. Our Number Two Chef (Anil Ashokan) was on his way out to Sydney. (He owns QMIN in Sydney). But because I was a front of house guy, it was not that easy. Chefs were in greater demand.

There were quite a few of us (from that period of 1986-1990), who all left to pursue opportunities abroad. Chutney Mary, La Porte Des Indies (Marble Arch), Bombay Brasserie, Quilon (London's Indian restaurants) all have connection with Taj of this period. One day, I was enjoying a glass of fresh watermelon juice in Shamiana (coffee shop) and I just picked up that day's newspaper and there it was. " Looking for a Restaurant Manager & a Head Chef for about to open Indian Restaurant in Dublin's Premier Suburb of Ballsbridge".

I applied for the Job and was luckily selected. I arrived in Dublin on 12th of March 1990, straight from Mumbai. I had not worn woolens for quite a few years, because Mumbai has no winters and absolutely loved wearing long coats. Little did I know........

The switch from a 5 Star Deluxe set up to a stand alone family run restaurant was quite a change but there was no point in looking back. There were only two Indian Restaurants worth talking about in those days. Rajdoot in Clarendon Street (Now Saba) and Eastern Tandoori in South William Street.

First time in a foreign country and there was a lot of curiosity about the opening date. Lots of guests would come in and enquire when is the place opening. The very first day, we did trial cooking, Stewart Kenny of Paddy Power was walking by with his 8-9 year old Son Nicky and we invited him in to sample the very first batch. It was a bit hot for him, but he loved it. 20 years later, he is still a regular guest at Rasam.

The very first day the new restaurant opened its door, we had Mr/s Peter White and their three boys. Eldest one being Trevor White. Behind them were two ladies (I was quietly informed by Mr Peter White, who owned "Whites on the Green" that one of the Ladies was Ms Helen Lucy Burke).

I also met Mr/s Don Tidey (Who had just returned from their trip to India and had dined in Tanjore at Taj). They are also regular Guests at Rasam. Mr Ruairi Quinn was often there, and specially during Presidential Election of Mrs. Mary Robinson.

Mr Brian Lenihan Senior's Doctor friend Dr Devine was another regular and he travelled a long distance from Naas. After the Election, he brought Mr/s Lenihan for Dinner one night. Upon his request, we prepared a very mild Lamb Dish for him, but he ended up enjoying other curries more.

In those days, Indian food was nothing like, what we served back home. Most of the restaurants used colourings, frozen chicken and were run by guys with hardly any Catering background. Once a week, chefs would go to a cash & carry in South Richmond Street, pick up readymade pastes, spices and make one basic curry sauce and that did the trick for 50 odd dishes on the menu!

But that has all changed with the better Indian restaurants now in Ireland and now Indian Food here is just as good, as you will find in any 5 star Hotel in India, - yes - Taj Mumbai included.