RESTAURANT REVIEW - ELECTRIC
Wednesday 04 May 2011
I guess it’s quite some time since a restaurant of size and import has opened in the centre of Cork, and on The Mall to boot. In recent times the focus for such openings had centered on Lapps Quay, with The Boardwalk Bar & Grill and Augustine’s joining the lovely Club Brasserie, which has been there quite some time. The ‘suits’ certainly seemed pleased to have a new watering hole on their doorstep with the creation of the big new Electric Restaurant & Bar, in what was formerly the ACC Bank Building, for they were out in force including the legal fraternity in one corner – solicitors, barristers and a Judge. How cosy – lets compare briefs boys!
The location is actually stupendous and I can see this being really popular in summer, but then Bankers always knew how to look after themselves! Overlooking the River Lee, with a vast patio area outside, this renovated Art Deco building was made for this purpose. People were already sitting outside and there was a lovely feel on a balmy evening as we crossed the River Lee on a footbridge a few yards down. The ground floor is a general bar serving coffee and pastries from 10 am, casual food from 12 non to 5 pm –hip sandwiches, cottage pie, soups, pate and so on, and where at 5 pm each day they offer complimentary Pinchos – Basque tapas – to complement their wines.
The restaurant is on the first floor, bag a table by the window and you have wonderful views over the river and up to St. Finbar’s Cathedral. Just as the legal boys were gathered downstairs, the well dressed ‘girls’ and girlettes were arriving in force for dinner upstairs. The ambiance is contemporary and smart but it is clear they are aiming at the mid price market. The chef and co-owner is Kevin O’Regan who was previously at the Liberty Grill, and before that at Silks Restaurant at the Horse & Jockey Hotel in Tipperary. Starters, all under a tenner, included chicken liver and smoked bacon pate with toast and plum sauce, and pan fried Brie with basil Serrano ham, tomato and mint chutney. Home smoked duck was Swedish style with beetroot, port and marinated cranberries. I had a carpaccio of turbot and salmon (€9) centred with a quenelle of sour cream and chives, vodka and lemon oil, and topped with lots of rocket. I liked the lightness and freshness of the dish, but it could have done with more impact from the vodka and lemon oil. Brendan had a good crab and salt cod fritter (€9) cut with the sweet sour sharpness of cucumber pickle and a saffron aioli.
Main courses are divided into ‘Mains, Fish and Steaks’. ‘Mains’ covers pasta and a Caesar salad, which can also be had as starters. Under this umbrella too was a beef burger with Cashel Blue cheese, and roast chicken with vegetables and goose fat roasties. ‘Fish’ included beer battered fish and chips; grilled organic salmon fillet Nicoise; grilled whole white sole with crab, parsley and lemon butter; and baked Ling. Brendan’s rack of lamb (€24) had a brace of decent chops, cooked pink, on a ragout of broad beans and smoked bacon, new potatoes, and topped with green asparagus, and a tomato and Parmesan butter. The fish on offer didn’t grab me and I went down a road I seldom travel with a whopping great fillet steak (€28). It was really good, juicy and tender, served with garlic butter, sauté mushrooms, lots of rocket, and hot hot fresh horseradish crème fraiche – that makes the difference to me!
‘Something Sweet’ were all priced sensibly at €7 and Brendan had a zingy baked lemon tart with lemon sorbet. Cheese for me had smoked Gubbeen, Crozier Blue and Ardrahan (€8) – a generous plate indeed - served with quince jelly, grapes and brown crostini. With a bottle of Muga Rioja Reserva 2006 (€30) and optional service our bill came to €129.
Electric will certainly add a frisson to Cork dining this Summer…. It will be a “Theatre of Life” to quote themselves!
Electric,
41 South Mall,
Cork,
Co. Cork.
Tel: (021) 422-2990
www.lucindaosullivan.com