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Restaurant Review - Cellar 22 and Row Wines

Restaurant Review - Cellar 22 and Row Wines

Wednesday 17 January 2024

I was in a subterranean haven at Cellar 22, a new wine bar on St Stephen’s Green, where Randy Crawford was belting out her ’80s hit, One Day I’ll Fly Away, over the sound system, and I honestly could have stayed there all day. In fact, this is not just any cellar. It has a considerable hospitality history down the years, having once been The Country Shop, opened in 1930 by Muriel Gahan, a staunch pioneer of the Irish Country Women’s Association, eventually closing its doors in the 1970s.

Later, No 22 was Barry Canny’s Browne’s Brasserie & Townhouse before he moved to No 16, opening his fab Peploe’s — now celebrating 20 years. It was home also to Richard Corrigan’s first Dublin venture, and to the Cliff Townhouse, which had its Urchin seafood bar in the basement.

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First Published In The Sunday Independent