TAPAS, TAPAS, TAPAS - REVIEWED
Wednesday 04 August 2010
I was getting really tetchy by the time I departed the new Mauzac Tapas Bar in Greystones. Tapas and vino appeals to girls big time on the night out but, at Irish prices, and as a dining concept, these morsels on which Spaniards graze in bars can tot up and be very bad value! Spanish tapas can feature anything from bulls balls (criadillas!) to Gallician octopus, squid in black ink, crunchy golden calamares, Boquerones – anchovies, Bacalao – salt cod, tortilla, quail eggs, chorizos, sardines, Iberian ham et al - but sharp and tasty being the operative word.
It is never great to be greeted and seated with “this is off, and that is off”, on an already fairly mundane selection of tapas, printed on a sheet of A4 white paper. Vegetable tapas €4.25/€5.75 included stuffed mushrooms, goat’s cheese brochette, deep fried goats cheese, spinach and Cannelini beans. Fish offerings €5.75/€6.75 had prawns and calamari. Meats €4.95/€9.50 included chicken wings, chicken skewer, bacon and cheddar croquettes, fillet steak, and meatballs. Having established that ‘cod fritters’ and a ‘vegetable antipasto’ were off, we ordered anchovy fillets, to be told they too were off. “You have a big supermarket right next door”, I said. “It (the cod) would be frozen there”, he replied. “You are opposite the wonderful A. Caviston’s with a fabulous selection of fresh fish”, I countered. “We couldn’t sell it at €6.75 then…”. Surely running a restaurant is about pleasing your diners and ensuring there aren't such silly gaffs as no bloody anchovies, antipasto vegetables, or basic cod as billed, in a Tapas bar! Fill in wherever you can for one night – you won’t lose your shirt on it!
Calamari Romano (€5.75) were skinny dry anaemic numbers on a white side plate, with two blobs of sauce and a lemon section, and about as much punch as a castrated Matador. Panfried garlic prawns at (€6.75) were five – three small and two smaller – and a big filler of leaves and cherry tomato. I have had ten prawns in some places at that price. “Italian Roasted Peppers” (€5.75) proved a luke warm, still firm, half yellow pepper with mozzarella and olives, whilst Chorizo al vino (€5.25) was one slice of an artisan Iberian chorizo, cut into four quarters, and lined up with more greenery. It was overcooked and hard as Pancho Villa’s backside. The ‘lower’ half of a tranch of garlic ciabbiata was €3.50! Patatas Bravas (€3.95) and Caldereta de Cordero (€6.95) a spicy lamb stew were the life savers. With two glasses of Pinot Grigio (€5 each) the bill was €47.90 before service. Forget castanets, no music, no atmosphere, Mauzac had all the joy and colour of badminton night at the Church Hall.
Las Tapas in Cabinteely is small and colourful with Spanish music, and lanterns lighting the stone walls. The welcome was warm and there was a wide menu, a lot of the stalwarts but they were vibrant, and sizzling hot. Charcuterie plates were €3.95/€5.95, paellas €11.50 (min 2 people) plus another 33 tapas. We kicked off with bread and mixed olives (€3.50) deliciously mixed with fresh lemon. Tortilla (€4.50) was a lovely fresh light hot tranch of potato and onion omelette, whilst calamari (€5.55) was crispy and golden. Pescado Blanco Frito (€5.95) was a square of deep fried battered cod with a ramekin of mayonnaise; Berenjenas Gratinadas (€4.95) was a delicious aubergine bake of tomato, wine, garlic and cheese, whilst Chorizo Fritto al Vino (€5.95) had plenty of smaller chorizo slices flavoured with paprika, garlic, herbs and red wine. Gambas Pil Pil (€6.95) here also had five prawns – not enough. Not on the menu, they happily prepared two little plates of Manchego and Blue cheese with ramekins of honey at €4.50 each – the perfect way to finish. With two glasses each of Martinez Lacuesta DOC 2009 Rioja blanco (€4.25 each) our bill for a warm colourful evening came to €68.15 with service.
Mauzac Tapas Bar,
Church Road,
Greystones,
Co. Wicklow.
Tel: (01) 287-0029
Las Tapas Café Bar,
Old Bray Road,
Cabinteely Village,
Dublin. 18.
(01) 236-9869
THIS ARTICLE WAS FIRST PUBLISHED IN THE SUNDAY INDEPENDENT ON AUGUST 1, 2010.