LA FOUGERE AT KNOCKRANNY HOUSE HOTEL
Tuesday 23 March 2010
Today, being Mother’s Day, lets hope it will be a day when the mothers of Ireland will be indulged left right and centre! However, If you have messed up, and even if you haven’t, its not too late to think of a nice plush weekend away for the Mammy!
I was lucky enough to have a super breakaway recently on a Wine Producers weekend at Adrian and Geraldine Noonan’s Knockranny House Hotel in Westport. This theme clearly proved popular with guests as there was a great turnout. At €179 pps for two nights bed and breakfast, wine tastings, and a gourmet Tasting Menu on one evening, it offered great value.
Knockranny is a luxurious spot with excellent service, beautiful antique furnishings, high ceilings, long wide corridors, spacious bedrooms and suites, including a top of the range magnificent Presidential Suite, a lovely Spa, and stunning views of Croagh Patrick.
Head Chef, Seamus Commons, has been making quite a name for himself on the foodie scene, also winning Best Chef in Connaught 2009 with Food & Wine magazine. His culinary pedigree includes a three year stint as Head Chef in L’Ecrivain over the period Derry Clarke was awarded a Michelin Star. Seamus, a Mayo man from just over the hill as it were, returned to his native county, initially to the Park Hotel at Mulranny, before moving to Knockranny.
On the first night we dined from the regular a la carte menu in La Fougere which proved to be beautifully executed food with meticulous attention to detail. Starters were €17/€20. I had pan fried Killary scallops (€19), asymetrically cut, interspersed with crispy crab wraps, and served in a line on a ‘ribbon’ of red pepper jus, with a quenelle of celeriac remoulade and lemongrass jus. Brendan had wild Irish partridge (€17), the breast roasted, the leg stuffed with smoked bacon and hazelnuts, served with an artichoke mille feuille and a sage and shallot bread sauce. Mains were €30/€32. I had beautifully seared wild turbot (€32), topped with a long cigarillo of confit duck, set on truffled celeriac, pickled enoki, and with a sauce Bourguignon. Brendan had an equally stunning loin of wild Ballinrobe venison (€31) and slow cooked shoulder, with caramelised pear, beetroot puree, and chocolate truffle. They also offer a very appealing Table d’hote menu at €54.
The wines being showcased on the Saturday were from Slovenia. The event was followed by a fabulous eight course tasting menu with matching wines expertly presented by Sommelier Nicolas Faujour. We started with Foie Gras Tart, warm banana jelly, ginger bread crumble, followed up by house smoked organic seatrout, crab mayonnaise, cauliflower and lime leaf puree. A seared scallop ensued on squash ravioli, hazelnut dressing, crispy sage, and a langoustine reduction. Beetroot sorbet was next with a horseradish crème fraiche. Next up was a ballotine and cassoulet of quail with a Scotch egg and smoked bacon veloute, followed by loin of venison with a chocolate sausage roll, walnut gnocchi, and parsnip mousseline. A pre dessert of chilli and chocolate jelly, blood orange and rose bud sorbet with warm cardamom foam was followed by apple parfait, canelloni, crumble and mousse, petit fours and coffee. It sounds like an awful lot of food but somehow it was so expertly light and controlled that we didn’t feel overcome by it all. Each course was matched a suitable wine and whilst all were absolutely delicious I was particularly impressed by a Pinot Gris 2008 from a new winery Verus Vinograd only set up in 2007 150 kms from Ljubljana by three friends and available through wine importers Cabot & Co, Westport. (Tel: 098 37000)
Their next event is a Seafood and Shellfish weekend 14/15 May at €219 with cookery demonstration, seafood and wine tasting, and gala Tasting Menu.
Seamus Commons’ food demonstrated an exquisite dexterity and lightness of touch. This is a man, and this is a place, that will make Knockranny and Westport a top dining destination.
La Fougere,
Knockranny House Hotel & Spa,
Westport,
Co. Mayo.
Tel: (098) 28600
www.lucindaosullivan.com
THIS WAS FIRST PUBLISHED IN THE SUNDAY INDEPENDENT ON 7TH MARCH 2010